Chapter 4
Yesterday, (Wednesday) was our first serious day of walking on our Portuguese Camino 2026.
We had known that it would be a big day as we were facing a 31 km / 18 mile minimum walk from Sagres to our accommodation at Barranca da Fonte.
So we were out on the trail by 7am and hoped to arrive at our hostel at around 3.30pm.
We actually arrived at 5.30pm having walked 36 km / 22 miles.
That was a big hit on day 1.
It was also a superb walk, where we got to witness the beauty of this western Algarve paradise, at first hand.
We saw golden beaches, flower strewn cliffs, crashing waves and isolated hamlets.
All of this ‘eye candy’ was illuminated throughout our walk, by warm (22 degree) hazy sunshine and a cooling coastal breeze.
Whilst it was warm we never broke into a serious sweat.
We were so grateful.
The sunshine and the wind were our friend for the whole day meaning that we never sizzled.
We saw a lot of other walkers: all heading south!
We only saw 2 other walkers heading north like us.
It seems this route is only walked north to south.
Steve reckoned 95% were walking north to South. I’d wager more like 99%.
We’re delighted.
It had made it feel even more special.
Previously, I’ve walked 8 other Camino’s spanning over 120 days of trekking and this was probably the most spectacular day’s walking of the lot!
We started in Sagres where we had stayed overnight and where we had walked to Cape St Vincent during the afternoon on Tuesday. That short walk was the official start of our 600 mile walk to Santiago.
That night we enjoyed a tasty meal in a restaurant just 200 metres from our hostel, washed down by a cold local beer.
When in Sagres of course!🍺
A feature of my blog yesterday was to mention ‘tactics’.
Camino Steve and I have often been very aligned in our planning around this trip. We knew that there were times when we would need to be tactical: ie very considered in reaching our objectives successfully .
We had already ‘bagsied the Cape’ a day early.
Now on this first big day of our walk, we decided to blitz the first 8 km by walking along the main road that links Sagres to Vila do Bispo.
We knew it would be a boring stretch of road, but we would get to the town quicker; certainly by 9am and we would be able to have a second breakfast there.
We knew it was always going to be a long day. We also knew that the forecast sunshine could be hot enough to cause us some problems. So an early tarmac trudge seemed a good move!
It felt like the ‘Road to Nowhere!’
Long and straight with featureless flat lands on either side.
It could have been boring: it was boring!
But it was also beautiful.
Cool, clear, fresh: the slumbering night was being replaced by what promised to be a vibrant day.
It felt like a great moment to be alive!
It was also fantastic to be out early, doing this walk with a solid, reliable walking buddy who is also extremely good company!
We smashed those 8 km in 1 hour 36 minutes and treated ourselves to our second breakfast at the Caravela cafe in Bispo: the only cafe open in town at that time.
The reviews weren’t great, averaging 3.8/5, but it was great for us.
Coffee, hot buttered toast and a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice.
What more does a hungry peregrino need?
A word about breakfast.
Camino-ing is hard work.
You walk long distances day after day, carrying a heavy (in our cases, quite light) pack, walking up and down steep elevations, often in pretty warm conditions.
You sweat and your body works hard.
So you get hungry often and quickly.
For Camino Steve and I, one breakfast has never been enough.
Our usual rhythm is to eat a quick breakfast around 6.30am and then a second more substantial breakfast around mid morning.
We may be men but we have a hobbit like fascination with “second breakfasts.”
Our hostel in Sagres actually offered a free breakfast at 08.30, as part of our booking.
8.30 is a late start on Camino!
Very late!
Pilgrims don’t do lie ins!
We didn’t have time to wait till 8.30.
Sohey kindly offered us a pack up as an alternative.
It was basic: a cheese sandwich in white ‘chemical’ sliced bread, bottle of water and an apple.
Basic yes: but on Camino basic will do.
But when it happens, beyond basic is beautiful!
After leaving the town we resorted to navigating via the Komooot walking app.
It was pretty easy, throughout the day and we didn’t go awry too often which was a relief as I was chief navigator.
Steve has become project manager and banker. He does all the bookings.
It works well.
We passed FC Bispo’s football ground.
I saw Camino Steve’s eyes light up as he took a moment to savour the spectacle and allow his imagination to to run riot.
”One Camino Steve; there’s only one Camino Steve…”
I swear I could almost hear the crowd roar.
We tried the gate but it was locked and as we walked on I saw Steve take a breath, sadly slump his shoulders and allow himself to return to his walking reality!
The only issue with the basic Komoot version (ie the freebie) is that it doesn’t label all the hamlets or checkpoints you walk through.
So frequently, we found ourselves switching from Komoot onto Google Maps and vice versa to make sure we had taken the right path.
These apps are seriously good though. Without them we would have needed to carry multiple large scale maps for this venture.
We passed through a wooden copse that had been smashed by the winter storms that battered Portugal after Christmas.
Large fir cones littered the trail and I thought nostalgically of my beautiful wife Nicky.
Ever resourceful, she makes our own firelighters for our 2 wood burners at home: out of fir cones, shredded paper and residual candle wax.
I’m going to find and take home a massive fir cone for her!
For those who remember the Bounty advert: “She’s worth it!”😜
After an hour of walking across beautiful moorland with lush young plants glistening in the sun, we caught our first glimpse of the sea beyond a sandy beach with a classic horseshoe of cliffs around it.
The wild flowers are amazing.
I’m usually a fan of snowdrops, daffodils and bluebells.
I’m adding ‘Yellow Hot Pokers’ to that list!
I’d love someone to tell me what that flower is actually called?
In one simple glance it totally justified our decision to take this route and undertake this barmy challenge.
We bravely forded a raging stream (see below): all of 7cm deep and walked along a dazzling beach.
Camino Steve nearly fell in.
Steve also tried his King Canute impression! “You shall not pass!”
The tide was unimpressed.
As we sauntered along the sandy beach with the surf crashing just feet away from us I thought ‘This is the dream!’
When an experience like this takes place you really have to savour it.
It really was a brilliant first day.
Of course I have not forgotten the other reason behind this walk.
Hannah: aged just 24.
Her family: grieving.
I have asked Liz to share a few details of what Hannah was like.
She is a talented writer: puts me in the shade.
Warning! It made my eyes water!
Meet Hannah and her mum.
Meet Hannah in the words of her mum.
“I think we always knew Hannah would be a teacher. The signs were there early on. When family or friends came to visit, they were often subjected to French lessons, with Hannah a stickler for correct pronunciation and, at times, quite scathing in her feedback. She was only about six.
As she grew older, her younger brothers would ask for her help with schoolwork, and she would hold “homework club” at the kitchen table — usually with a cat on her lap and a Candy’Up and biscuits by her side.
She was mostly patient, although I’ll name no names — but one of her younger brothers in particular tested that patience to its limits at times. She was clear in her explanations and endlessly creative in finding ways to make learning fun.
The door to the back hall, which I had painted in bright red chalkboard paint, became her classroom. The vintage stock-cube tin of coloured chalks was a permanent fixture on the window ledge beside it.
That same door also carried her welcome-home messages, Christmas countdowns and birthday wishes. I have photographs of many of them, and I treasure them.
Her last message is still there.
Though it’s slowly fading, I will not rub it out.
It says, See you in a bit.”
Gulp!
If you have decided to support this cause, thank you so much.
If you want to support it, please use the link below:
We’ve already had unbelievable support!
Over £1800 raised so far! Amazing!
Buen Camino
Thanks for the read
Martin ……. and Liz xxx
Answer to yesterday’s question:
St James’ boat was made of stone.
Question 4:
A true pilgrim can only travel the Camino in 3 ways: 1is on foot. what are the other 2?
Martin Moorman is a 61 year old retired Headteacher who lives with his wife Nicky, daughter and her family in North Yorkshire, UK.
Happily married for 36 years, Martin and Nicky have 3 grown up children, all happily married too. In his spare time Martin loves walking, photography, football, renovating cooking and talking rubbish to anyone who will listen!
Martin Moorman 