Chapter 15
Hola Peregrinos,
Welcome to more ‘Tales from the Trail’
Yesterday we completed our 11th full day on this trek up the Atlantic coast of Portugal to Santiago de Compostella on the NW tip of Spain.
This is a 1000km or 600 mile journey and I have 35 days to complete it.
This blog focuses on our walking efforts on Easter Sunday, 5 April.
Sunday was a day of changes.
It started with a change in landscape.
A significant change.
Yesterday I referenced a large chemical works which dominated the horizon on our walk out of Lisbon.
It became a focal point for a walk that entered a more drab and less visually appealing landscape.
It was a long walk: 23 miles, or 38 km and it concluded with a tough final 10 km.
It was only after another 5 of those km were completed, that I finally walked past the entrance gates to this monstrosity!
At the time I called it Mordor.
Later on it became Murder.
Both rang true!
Tough?
Because the soles on both my feet are inflamed and painful.
Most especially the right foot.
Take my soles out of the equation and I am genuinely feeling fantastic.
As fit as I have felt for a long time!
But, man!
Those soles…….
They shriek at the moment!
I reflected ruefully, that such a small part of my body, an area that probably represents less than 1% of my total body mass, can have such a disproportionate influence on my ability to walk.
Of course I carry on walking.
As the Beautiful South famously sang: “Carry on Regardless!” 🎵
Or at least try to.
I reassured myself: any pain I feel, will not be forever.
Kidology can help a bit.
But I think I’m clever enough to realise I’m just kidding myself! 🤔
But it’s painful and the repeated long stages aren’t massively helpful in mitigating the pain.
Right at the end we walked past this uplifting fresco.
A fresh faced peregrino, striding out with confidence, a light pack, clean well fitted boots, whistling “valderee, valderaa….”🎵
Remove that image from your minds.
It’s not the Camino Steve that I know.
And lamentably, it’s not the Martin Moorman I usually am …… whenever on a more normal trail. 😜
I’m not a fan of that fresco!
It lies.
Another change was the length. O
Only 12ish miles!
Easy?
Surely?
Another lie.
It was 14!
A much shorter day, but also, visually much less appealing.
We did see that red train!
“ Whoop whoop” from the driver!
“Whoop whoop” from this unstimulated and quite ironic Peregrino.
Excitement mounted!
We also saw a lot of tarmac!
Too much.
Not the most uplifting of landscapes and not the most soothing of surfaces to walk along.
There were a few more ‘Mordor’s’ on this route.
It was industrial, ugly, hot.
I tried to count the oil barrels.
Then the hidden entrepreneur inside me got to hatch up an illegal, but nevertheless cunning plan.
Nick a few barrels and flog the contents on the black market in the UK.
Diesel is £1.80+ a barrel apparently.
I could sell it for £1.70.
Happy days.
Boring tarmac inspires outlandish thinking!
It was a landscape where concrete and tarmac proliferated.
Big chimneys belched out their bile.
For the first time in 2 weeks this was pretty unattractive.
If you usually like my photographs, you will probably be scrolling through at this point.
Things of beauty were just few and far between.
I still tried.
We left Vila Franca de Xira at around 09.00.
We could have stayed in bed until 11.00 but in typical Camino style I was up with the larks and Camino Steve was not far behind.
We ate an ‘all you can eat breakfast’ with relish.
I went up for 3 portions of bacon and scrambled egg, 4 cafe con leches, 2 orange juices, yoghurt, cornflakes….. toast!
Please understand, I wasn’t being greedy.
I was just starving.
The Camino makes you feel very hungry.
Outside the hostel doors was the loveliest fresh food market I have ever seen.
Halifax Borough Market building is very beautiful.
But Vila Franca de Xira Market has the edge.
So, so beautiful.
It was a shame it was closed: due to the Easter weekend obviously.
I’d love to have seen it in operation.
200 metres down the road was the beautiful train station.
Similar style, similar substance.
Wow!
We passed 2 trees framing a gate.
I love a tree as you may have come to realise.
And that was then that!
I was back to man made mundanity.
Train tracks became attractive!
Despite all the bland, I still managed to position us on the wrong side of the train track.
Another school boy navigational error.
I’ll learn one day I guess.
But we did see a plane….. of sorts.
I caught Camino Steve shortcutting the trail and clearly trespassing.
Me?
I hope you know me better than to even ask! 😜
I’m no criminal!
A long chat with my eldest son Harry, supported me 7 km up that road.
Jake’s Crocs saved my day again.
5 km were Croc-ed
My boys rock!❤️👌
It was our first night in an official ‘Peregrino’s Only Hostel’.
This is where you need a ‘Credential’ or pilgrim passport.
You are then eligible to stay there.
It cost €10 each!
Bargain.
It was full…… and we were 2 out of the 16 Peregrinos who made it so.
And so the long awaited, community element of our trip, had finally started.
These hostels are often basic, cheap, usually clean and usually more affordable.
They often have a brilliant atmosphere that surpasses their home quality status.
If hostel living is not for you, feel free to scroll.
Camino Steve and I love it.
It is raw, authentic, chaotic.
The League of Nations uniquely combine for one night, every night, along the trail.
8 pairs of Bunk beds in 1 room.
2 showers.
A basic kitchen and a basic lounge.
An outside drying area: basic!
The sun was mostly on the other side of the building though.
A basic clothes washing area: with cold water feed only.
2 toilets!
I’d always prefer 3 or 4 toilets to prevent ‘Operation Stack’; especially at 06.30 each morning!
But beggars can’t be choosers.
I just change to my pilgrim body rhythm and choose to go ‘out of hours!’ 🤣
So much less stress!
I mean: who wants to have a queue outside the cubicle door, restraining themselves, whilst you yourself are straining: all within smell-shot and earshot of the queuing fraternity?
Clothes pegs were provided though: always a welcome plus point.
And obligatory paper sheets and pillow cases.
Disposable of course!
Or are they? 🤮
There to stop those pesky bed bugs🐞!
Bed bugs are basically fantasy and folklore on the Camino!
They aren’t really about because of those paper sheets, in part. And plastic lined mattresses. And …..W
What self-respecting hostel owner wants to face race 1* reviews on bedbugs?
I had a book self-published about my Camino in 2017 with the boys.
The title was irony.
Not reality!
Not ours anyway!
The craic is fantastic.
Last night did not disappoint.
We sat and chatted as a group, with 4 ladies from Australia, Glenn from Hertfordshire, (who’s daughter Claire, trained to be a teacher in the same university and year as Nicky my wife), 3 pilgrims from France, Eva from Germany, Michael from California and Evan from Norwich.
Camino Steve and I were there too, of course.
And as with most things in life, there’s the rub!
A tough walk, top trumped by a lovely community.
That’s why a Camino hostel experience is so good.
I didn’t mention burping, farting and snoring did I?
Or the 05.00 early risers making a racket.
C’est la vie.
Tomorrow is a 20 mile/34 km day.
My feet aren’t very happy!B
It I have a hot date in Porto and I don’t want to be late! ❤️
The lady in red! 💋
“Hot stuff!” 🎵 – Donna Summer.
Thanks for the read.
Buen Camino.
Martin x
Don’t forget,
I’m walking this crazy trek for 2 reasons.
Firstly, to celebrate life: the life and family I have and I love.
Secondly, to support my youngest sister Lizzie and her family, as they try to come to terms, with the tragic loss of her youngest daughter Hannah: killed in a drink drive car crash last July.
If you would consider sponsoring me and them, we would all be so grateful.
Please click the link below:
Thank you so much, if you do.
Martin Moorman is a 61 year old retired Headteacher who lives with his wife Nicky, daughter and her family in North Yorkshire, UK.
Happily married for 36 years, Martin and Nicky have 3 grown up children, all happily married too. In his spare time Martin loves walking, photography, football, renovating cooking and talking rubbish to anyone who will listen!
Yesterday’s Question
Who starred in the Hollywood movie ’The Way,’ which tells the story of a grieving dad, finding hope again, whilst walking the Camino de Santiago?
Answer: Martin Sheen and James Nesbitt.
Today’s Question:
Martin Moorman 