Chapter 17
In the 1992 film, ‘A River Runs Through It’, directed by Robert Redford, a young Brad Pitt stars as 1 of the 2 Maclean brothers, Paul and Norman, who live a relatively idyllic life in rural Montana, spending much of their time fly-fishing.
The sons of a Presbyterian minister, the boys eventually part company but reunite to fly fish the river they had fished so often with their dad.
It is a sad film, beautifully filmed and directed on location in Montana.
Unconditional love is the film’s core theme: a father’s unconditional love for a self destructive son.
The Tagus river lies at the core of this region of central Portugal.
It is a ‘big river’ and it has had a huge influence on the local landscape and economy.
2 days ago we walked along a 20 mile section of a historic flood defence embankment that protects people’s homes from the ravages of the Tagus.
It is the only thing that can save the local community from complete disaster.
Well, that and drought I guess!
Heaven forbid!
When, the Tagus bursts its banks it runs and runs across this flood plain region.
The lyrics of Jimmy Nail’s 1995 melodic song, ‘Big River,’ lament the decline of another river in northern England, as human ‘progress’ sounds the death knell of local coal and shipbuilding industries in Newcastle.
“Walking on cobbled stones
Little bits of skin and bone
Jumping on a tram car for a ride
I can remember then
As I was just a boy of ten
Hanging around the old key side
Now all the capstans and the cargo boats
And stevedores are gone
To where all the old ships go
But memories just like the seas live on
‘Cause that was when coal was king
The river was living thing
And I was just a boy
But it was mine
The coaly Tyne”
The Tagus is also a big river.
It serves as the border between Spain and Portugal for approximately 47–60 km.
This section is located on the eastern border of Portugal’s Castelo Branco district.
As we have walked north, the size of the Tagus, in normal flow, has diminished.
But we did cross a point where the effects of the raging Tagus, in full winter spate, just a month ago, could still be seen.
The tangled plastic waste hanging from the trees, was a reminder of the environmental scourge of this man made product.
We were also reminded of the ferocious power of nature when suitably enraged.
In the village of Azinhaga, we followed a particularly beautiful stretch of the Tagus, along a cool, tree lined riverside path.
Our day had started at around 06.30, back in Santarem , when we left the hostel, to find a cafe for breakfast.
We had a long walk ahead of us with only 2 villages on route on this typical 20 mile day: 32 km day.
So a refuel was important.
Every day is a ‘Big Walking’ day on this route.
In 7 of the last 8 days we have walked between 18-23 miles.
It’s been punishing on sore soles.
The blisters, I can seem to keep under control, but the area to the immediate side of the ball on both of my feet is tender, inflamed and hurts.
So I’m now a route picker.
If I can go slightly off the path to walk on softer, less compacted surfaces, I will.
My spirits now soar with soft sand.
8 days ago it frustrated me!
Finely tilled earth is the dream ticket.
I reflected ruefully, how I avoided soft sand, at all cost back on the Fisherman’s Trail, about 8 days ago.
Oh feels like a lifetime ago now!
Soft mud is ok if it isn’t too slippy.
But there are limits.
We negotiated a mile long section of tractor churned, soggy mud: not attractive and not great when your feet feel fragile anyway.
Despite the mud, the wildflowers provided very pretty distractions.
Simon and Garfunkel sprang to mind: ‘Slip sliding away’🎵
I giggled.
It was comical watching the other walkers.
Only I realized that I was in my own stand up comedy show too.
Very funny! 🫣
Not!
It was quite extreme and very slippery after the morning’s heavy rain shower.
One peregrino chose to walk bare footed. *
Not my idea of fun or particularly wise in my view.
But!
It’s his Camino.
No judgement.
When he did have footwear on, he was walking in flip flops!
See above! * 🫣
Nuts!
It was pure flatland viewing: agricultural with very little cover or shade.
Shade wasn’t actually a problem as it was a cool day.
Maximum temperatures only reached 18 degrees.
Pretty cool by recent standards.
Shelter might have helped us.
We got wet.
Our first rain on this trip.
We sheltered under the only tree available.
Fortunately, it stopped raining after 20 minutes.
We weren’t soaked but we were pretty damp.
We caught up with 3 of the Aussie girls.
They are tough cookies.
Wearing their pilgrim ponchos they had carried on walking, despite the rain.
Donna might try to make the humble poncho look cool.
But I bet this is one photo she won’t share with the kids in her school.
Fashionable they are not!
We walked until 1.30pm.
We stopped in a wind blown garden area.
It was cold.
We had a simple lunch which everyone wolfed down.
Cheese, bread, tomatoes and crisps tastes like a feast on Camino.
Then we hit the riverside trail mentioned earlier.
Beautiful.
A vibrant street fresco greeted us.
A statue of a Nobel prize winning writer from the village had attracted the attention of Jenni and Donna.
They are book club members back home in Cairns, Australia.
Hence the interest.
I never found out what he wrote and what his name was.
More ‘Orwell than Cartland’ I would think.
More street art drifted by.
Plus a beautiful kilometre sign post.
The simplest thing gives unimaginable pleasure on Camino.
It might be storks on a roof…..
Again.
It might be grungy, dilapidated houses.
Or proper blue and yellow Camino signposts, indicating the long road to Santiago.
It is quite hard to explain to the uninitiated.
But, in essence, the joy of the Camino, for me at least, lies in its modern life detox, and an increasing sense of gratitude for what you have.
Not what you don’t have.
Rain returned for the 6km walk into town.
The road trudges are dull.
They don’t float my boat.
Wet road trudges, even less so.
Fortunately, I got a FaceTime chat in with Nicky and my beautiful granddaughter.
Much as I love the Camino, I’m also excited that every day, brings me closer to a physical reconnection, with the girls and boys in my life!
More statues.
Reaching the church meant I had only 800 painful metres left to hobble.
Another 20 miler, all but!
Golly!
My soles!
We are certainly knocking out the distances.
Last night 10 of us went out for dinner.
We met Paulo and Maria who run a lovely little restaurant just round the corner from our hostel.
120 metres of ‘extra’ walking.
Manageable even for ‘Sir Limpalot!’
The conversation and fun was intoxicating.
Paulo was a retired bullfighter.
He elected to dress me up.
A natural ‘Toureiro’ for sure!
The silky hat?
Just made me look sillier!
That meal and the company?
Top drawer!
The Camino?
It just restores your faith in human nature.
Forget your Trumps, your Epsteins and Putins.
Normal people, doing normal things and making your normal day feel flipping good.
It is so addictive!
If you weren’t aware, I’m walking this 600 mile challenge, to support my sister and her family, who live in France.
Her youngest daughter Hannah was killed in a drink drive car crash in July.
A normal family, facing completely abnormal circumstances, but trying to create a lasting legacy in Hannah’s name.
No bitterness: just a desire to positively celebrate her uniquely beautiful nature.
If you would like to support me, the sponsor details are in the link below.
Thank you so much.
Martin Moorman is a 61 year old retired Headteacher who lives with his wife Nicky, daughter and her family in North Yorkshire, UK.
Happily married for 36 years, Martin and Nicky have 3 grown up children, all happily married too. In his spare time Martin loves walking, photography, football, renovating cooking and talking rubbish to anyone who will listen!
Yesterday’s Camino Question:
What is the Spanish word for pilgrim?
Answer : Peregrino
Question:
The ‘Botumfeiro’ is a huge incense burner that is often swung in Santiago Cathedral.
What was the original reason for doing this?
Martin Moorman 
another good read Martin snd more interesting photos
so the rain found you, dont worry the sun is leaving here and returning to you tomorrow I guess.
its set fire to the Blackstone moors today 😪😪
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