Chapter 34
Hola Peregrinos,
Welcome to day 34 of ‘Tales from the Trail.”
It is yet another early ‘Good morning’ from a hostel called Patos Beach House, 14 km north of Baiona, in Northern Spain.
Portugal feels a long time ago, although in truth my wife Nicky only flew home last Sunday morning:
Just a week, but it feels kind another life.
We had a ball.
Porto is spectacular.
The most perfect of city breaks.
The hostel I stayed in on Saturday night is near a beach (obviously!)
That beach is somewhere outside the front door: very close.
I know it is both north and very close.
I had zero inclination to double check the beach out yesterday afternoon and evening.
I had hobbled to it.
And that would do it!
If it is anything like the permanent beach I walked alongside yesterday it was no doubt a lovely one.
I also reasoned, as I lay in my bed this morning, (Sunday 26th April), they i would see it anyway in 30 minutes time when I planned to leave at 07.00.
Normally, I would have been out there exploring and exploiting that beach and its proximity, as soon as I had sorted my gear and showered after Saturday’s walk.
But yesterday wasn’t ‘normal’.
Of course, there’s quite a lot about this trip that isn’t normal.
I’ve had to adapt at times, and in recent days, really lean into listening to what my body is telling me to do and not to do.
Marathon runners are warned to expect ‘a wall’ as they start to approach the final quarter of their race.
Today in London, 2 marathon runners completed the race in under 2 hours.
Mad!
Unbelievable!
So nicely put by Mr Google.
‘Sudden energy loss’ – there was some of that in my emotions, as arrived at the hostel.
Hurting feet – there was a lot of that.
Sadness that my sister Lizzie had to pull out after tearing her meniscus on Tuesday or Wednesday: there was an awful lot of that.
My mojo had dipped yesterday, forth first time on this trip. and getting going on the trail took some real mental effort.
I was reminded of the beautiful REM song that is the title of this chapter.
You can hear it here if you touch and press down on the link.
“When your day is long
And the night, the night is yours alone
When you’re sure you’ve had enough
Of this life, well hang on
Don’t let yourself go
‘Cause everybody cries
Everybody hurts sometimes
Sometimes everything is wrong
Now it’s time to sing along
When your day is night alone (hold on, hold on)
If you feel like letting go (hold on)
If you think you’ve had too much
Of this life, well hang on
‘Cause everybody hurts
Take comfort in your friends
Everybody hurts
Don’t throw your hand, oh no
Don’t throw your hand
If you feel like you’re alone
No, no, no, you are not alone
If you’re on your own in this life
The days and nights are long
When you think you’ve had too much
Of this life to hang on
Well, everybody hurts sometimes
Everybody cries
Everybody hurts, sometimes
And everybody hurts sometimes
So hold on, hold on
Hold on, hold on, hold on
Hold on, hold on, hold on
Everybody hurts.”
I was hurting.
Physically, socially and emotionally.
Thankfully I did get out of bed, shower and leave the hostel in the end.
But my walking didn’t really start until I’d taken a double coffee break, within a kilometre of each other and had sat blogging and delaying the inevitable for 2 hours.
So on Saturday. I decided to take it very easy.
And treat myself to a little 12-14 km walk.
That’s 7-8 English miles:
A walk in the park.
Best laid plans!
That went totally west.
I managed to walk unintentional ‘extras’ as I went 2 km off piste.
‘Extras’ are not a pilgrim’s friend.
Well: not this pilgrim’s anyway.
I wanted to follow my friend Richard’s recommendation and take a coffee at the rather swanky Baiona ‘Paramore’ hotel.
Richard walks in my Monday group with the Wayfarers.
He’s a kind, generous man who is also possibly the best researcher I have ever met!
When I’ve chatted to him about Camino’s, cars and solar panels he has gone away and come back with some great information and clearly articulated pros and cons.
So when he recommended a coffee at the Paramore in Baiona, who was I to argue.
Very nice it was.
I did feel a trifle under dressed in my Crocs and shorts.
But I reasoned that my euros are as good as those of the great and the good of international society.
There were other pilgrims staying there for sure.
They carried the scallop shell of the Camiño, so they were discernible.
I did think they looked quite sculpted however, in shiny goretex boots and freshly laundered, high end, walking gear.
The smell of Givenchy hung heavily in the air.
Clearly knights of the realm have stayed here.
Which made my €2.30 coffee with complimentary croissant and cake, seem like an absolute steal.
That Givenchy smell……?
It made me think for a bit.
I guess I looked and maybe smelled a bit more…….
Earthy! 😂
Though I hasten to add, I really do not smell earthy.
I shower morning and night on Camino.
I’m pretty confident when I say, that I am the only pilgrim who showers twice a day.
Most pilgrims shower only in the evening, even when they are given a complimentary towel!
Weird!
Why wouldn’t you?
Just my opinion of course:
No judgement!
As always!😂
Trish the absolutely brilliant school administrator, who faithfully served my school for almost 30 years, did correct my Facebook post last night.
Apparently I went to a Paradore.
Not a Paramore!
Don’t argue with ‘Trish the Dish’, she is NEVER wrong!
My last Camiño was in 2024.
I’ve never walked the Camiño Portuguese before, but it seems to me that the standard of hostels has increased significantly? in the last 2 years.
They are a touch more expensive: usually between 18- 25?euros. But the quality is usually so good.
Well designed, great facilities and all mod cons including induction hobs, air conditioning, washing machines and WiFi.
They have all been really comfortable, light and airy and great value for money.
This is the dining area of my hostel tonight (Sunday).
Many offer towels free of charge: freshly laundered, white and gloriously fluffy!
A complimentary towel is a game changer in my opinion.
It helps me to shower in the morning and feel up and ready for my hike.
I’ve only used my microfibre towel 5-6 times.
My walk to the Paradore unfortunately backfired!
Another of my anticipated shortcuts headed west.
I should have known better.
Historic forts weren’t really built for shortcuts!🫣
“Shortcuts make for long delays!” (LOTR).
I can vouch for that.
There was no shortcut! 🙄
But it was a very spectacular promontory, so I’m glad I limped up there, even though I ended up walking around 3 km extra to do so.
Google Maps had suggested an alternative route measuring 800 metres.
I really need to improve my working relationship with GM!
Trust!
Was lacking.
They’ve sent me on too many wild goose chases earlier in this trip.
My friend Richard has high standards.
I knew it would be worth it,
It was.
So I slurped up my coffee and went on my way.
Slurping and the Baiona Paradore are rather alien bedfellows I suspect!😜
Despite my delayed departure, within 3 hours I had walked the 12-14 km to my destination.
It was a lovely, gentle …..
Hobble!
Beach sculptures galore.
Inland lagoons.
Beaches to yourself.
The visuals far outweighed the physicals.
And not an inch of elevation.
I walked the last 2 miles along the beach.
A small stream inlet provided succour to my sobbing soles.
And then I planted my backside on a very comfortable sofa at the hostel: and refused to move!
Bliss.
And that’s when the ‘Tourist Pilgrims’ arrived!
There will be many more of them in the next few days.
No judgement!
Santiago must be close!
98 km away this morning.
More like 70+ tonight.
But there is an ‘extras’ route that I might choose to take if my soles survive.
Meanwhile, Lizzie is safely ensconced and recovering at home.
She wrote to me tonight, and attached her latest sunflower fused glass photo.
You can order these through me if you want one. £15. Lizzie makes them.
All the proceeds go to Hannah’s charity.
“Song choice ‘With a Little Help From My Friends.’ The Beatles
I’m watching the London Marathon. I absolutely love it.
It’s been 12 years since I ran it, and it still ranks as one of the greatest experiences of my life.
Today we’ve witnessed history — not just one, but two athletes coming in under two hours and smashing the world record. Incredible. The elite and club athletes are phenomenal, and their dedication to their sport is inspiring.
But my heart lies further back in the race — with the ordinary men and women who take on the enormous challenge of running a marathon for all sorts of reasons.
Some run in memory of loved ones, or to raise funds for charities that have helped them through difficult times. Many aren’t natural athletes, but they lace up their trainers, commit to the training, and, against the odds, get themselves to the start line.
During my time as a runner, I completed many half marathons and marathons, and I always said that if you want to see the good in humanity, go to a marathon start line. Talk to the runners. Hear their stories.
The Camino is the same in many respects. I’ve now walked two stretches — one on the Française, and more recently three days on the Portuguese. On both occasions, I met nothing but openness and kindness. And I know, from the stories he’s shared, that Martin has encountered the same on his walks.
Whether the journey is a marathon or a Camino, there is something powerful in that shared spirit — in the openness, the kindness, and the quiet determination to keep going.
Because in the end, it’s not just about the miles — it’s about the people we meet along the way. And that’s true of life, too.
Lots of love”
Lizzie. X
This walk is all about Hannah and her family, and the tragic loss they encountered only 10 months ago.
Hannah lived life fully.
She was vibrant and beautiful.
Her death has shaken her family’s world.
Hannah’s legacy is in the charity that bears her name and this is explained in the link below.
If you are willing to sponsor me/them, I would be so grateful.
Thank you.
Thanks again, for the read.
Buen Camino x
Martin x
Martin Moorman is a 61 year old retired Headteacher who lives with his wife Nicky, daughter and her family in North Yorkshire, UK.
Happily married for 36 years, Martin and Nicky have 3 grown up children, all happily married too. In his spare time Martin loves walking, photography, football, renovating cooking and talking rubbish to anyone who will listen!
Martin Moorman 